Itinerary 5: Portpatrick and Castle Kennedy

This is a gorgeous day out if you fancy trading Luce Bay for the other side of the peninsula, with a proper fishing village, a clifftop castle ruin and one of Scotland’s most romantic gardens all in one loop. Pack a flask, wear decent shoes for the castle walk, and give yourself the whole day, there is a lot to take in.

The Route

From Port William you head north and across to Stranraer, then on to Portpatrick on the west coast of the Rhins. It is about a 40 minute drive, 27 miles, so a relaxed late-morning start works well.

First Stop: Portpatrick

Portpatrick is one of those villages that just makes you want to slow down. It is a working harbour with brightly painted houses, a real sense of community, and views straight across to the Northern Irish coast on a clear day. Start with a coffee and something to eat at the Harbour House Hotel, 53 Main Street, Portpatrick, DG9 8JW, tel 01776 810456. They serve morning rolls, lunch and dinner in a lovely sea facing conservatory, and dogs are welcome in the bar and lounge if you have brought yours along.

Have a wander round the harbour afterwards. There are cafés and restaurants dotted along the front, a putting green if you fancy a bit of fun, and a proper coastal path if you want to stretch your legs before the drive continues.

Dunskey Castle

Second Stop: Dunskey Castle

From Portpatrick, follow the signed coastal path south towards the ruins of Dunskey Castle, a 16th century tower house perched right on the cliff edge with the sea crashing below on three sides. It is about a mile there and back, with some steps and an uphill start, but nothing too strenuous.

The castle itself is fenced off and the interior is not officially accessible for safety reasons, the walls are old and it is a genuine ruin, but the walk out to it is one of the best short coastal walks in the area. The views back over Portpatrick and out across the Irish Sea are stunning, and it is a wonderful spot for photos.

Head back inland towards Stranraer for the afternoon and Castle Kennedy Gardens, Stranraer DG9 8SJ, tel 01776 702024. This has been the home of the Earl and Countess of Stair for almost 300 years, and it is genuinely one of the loveliest gardens in the whole of Scotland.

The 75 acre grounds sit on an isthmus between two lochs, with the romantic ruins of the original Castle Kennedy at one end and Lochinch Castle, still lived in by the family, at the other. There is a two acre round pond, a famous Monkey Puzzle avenue, and an incredible collection of rhododendrons and champion trees. There is a café and tearoom on site too, so it is a lovely place to stop for something sweet before you head home.

The gardens are open daily from 28th March to 1st November, 10am to 5pm. They run guided walking tours and other events throughout the season, so it is well worth checking their website before you go to see what is on.

Evening: Home to the Cottage

By the time you get back to Port William you will have had a proper day out, harbour views, a clifftop castle and one of Scotland’s finest gardens all in one loop.

Practical Tips

• Set off mid-morning, this is a full day out with three good stops
• Harbour House Hotel serves food 10am to 9pm every day, dogs welcome in the bar and lounge
• The walk to Dunskey Castle is about a mile round trip with some steps, wear proper shoes
• Dunskey Castle is a ruin viewed from the outside, the interior is fenced off for safety
• Castle Kennedy Gardens is open daily, 28th March to 1st November, 10am to 5pm, adults £7
• Check castlekennedygardens.com before you go for guided walks and events on the day